Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Challenging climbing with some blind moves at the bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 07/May/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
earthkeptwarm 9 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I'm sure last time I tried this there was a crimp for the left that was above the scoop. Now there is a patch that looks like fresh rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm sure last time I tried this there was a crimp for the left that was above the scoop. Now there is a patch that looks like fresh rock.
Sophie Nunn 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a hold off at the top of the scoop, may have made it harder but there maybe another way to do it...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a hold off at the top of the scoop, may have made it harder but there maybe another way to do it...
Alan James - Rockfax 3 Apr, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent technical finish with some blind moves past the old peg and a sustained section above (the peg is not clipped since there is a bolt next to it). Hard to onsight but much easier to red point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent technical finish with some blind moves past the old peg and a sustained section above (the peg is not clipped since there is a bolt next to it). Hard to onsight but much easier to red point.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Victims of Fashion

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Edge)

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