Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

17m.

Rockfax Description
A very rewarding pitch that ascends the blank wall via some hard and sustained moves. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 02/Feb/1991.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very good climbing, once the loose lower wall is passed, though this should clean up with more traffic. The hard section is quite short, though packs a lot of technical moves in. Bound to become popular.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good climbing, once the loose lower wall is passed, though this should clean up with more traffic. The hard section is quite short, though packs a lot of technical moves in. Bound to become popular.
Ben Stokes 6 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Now rebolted. Probably the best 7a+ in this sector. Some spicy moves over the bulge, followed by balancy stuff all the way to the LO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now rebolted. Probably the best 7a+ in this sector. Some spicy moves over the bulge, followed by balancy stuff all the way to the LO.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pump Hitler

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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