Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Tasty tufa technicalities on the black wave. A good pitch. © Rockfax
FA. Damian Cook 01/Jun/1995.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cedric Monzali | 25 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Another unsung Portland gem! Slopers, mini tufas, varied angles and big fun moves! Allez! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Another unsung Portland gem! Slopers, mini tufas, varied angles and big fun moves! Allez! |
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| Ellis Bird | 20 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Whoopsie, now missing a good jug and a small foothold, hasn’t really changed the grade though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Whoopsie, now missing a good jug and a small foothold, hasn’t really changed the grade though. |
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| richgac | 4 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb, varied and sustained climbing. Doesn't appear to be climbed that often .. get on it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb, varied and sustained climbing. Doesn't appear to be climbed that often .. get on it! |
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| Ben Stokes | 21 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route with a blind and slightly reachy crux. If you have the beta it is steady for 7a+ - if you don’t it could feel desperate. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route with a blind and slightly reachy crux. If you have the beta it is steady for 7a+ - if you don’t it could feel desperate. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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For Love and Liberty
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Blacknor North)