Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
An intricate and excellent line that takes the face left of a flake. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Taylor 22/Feb/2005.
Ticklists
Orange Spot Portland , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FallingBrick | 20 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Need to make sure you go diagonally up the central face scoop otherwise it is easier than the grade. Oh and the photo is of Rough Diamond, not this climb. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Need to make sure you go diagonally up the central face scoop otherwise it is easier than the grade. Oh and the photo is of Rough Diamond, not this climb. |
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| omniscient_penguin | 4 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely not a 5 when compared to just about any other 5. The top section seems to have lost a hold giving you a few more immense jugs to grab as you walk up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely not a 5 when compared to just about any other 5. The top section seems to have lost a hold giving you a few more immense jugs to grab as you walk up. |
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| Wilbur | 12 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The line on the topo doesn't follow the bolts of the F4 to the right of it. But common sense dictates that you use the first two bolts on the 4... otherwise it's a 40 ft solo to the first bolt on snappy rock... no thanks! Anyway, used the first 2 bolts and then broke left. Cracking easy route. Definitely not a 5 compared to Dream of white porsches/It's my life/slings shot etc etc - i'd say it was F4... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The line on the topo doesn't follow the bolts of the F4 to the right of it. But common sense dictates that you use the first two bolts on the 4... otherwise it's a 40 ft solo to the first bolt on snappy rock... no thanks! Anyway, used the first 2 bolts and then broke left. Cracking easy route. Definitely not a 5 compared to Dream of white porsches/It's my life/slings shot etc etc - i'd say it was F4... |
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| Fidget | 24 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The topo doesn't show it sharing any of the bolts with Diamond Boulder (the central route)! Plus there were other people on that route anyway. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The topo doesn't show it sharing any of the bolts with Diamond Boulder (the central route)! Plus there were other people on that route anyway. |
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| steve taylor | 3 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: You must have been lost - it's got loads of bolts (7 of them), but the first two are shared witht he central route... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: You must have been lost - it's got loads of bolts (7 of them), but the first two are shared witht he central route... |
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| Fidget | 19 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A nice route - very easy at the start with a lack of bolts (but none needed), then once hard-ish (well bolted) section in the middle. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A nice route - very easy at the start with a lack of bolts (but none needed), then once hard-ish (well bolted) section in the middle. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach
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