Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish. © Rockfax
FA. Marty Hallett Jun/1998.
Ticklists
Portland , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dycotiles | 29 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic! |
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| John Wellbelove | 6 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top. |
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| nealh | 20 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out |
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| Richard Horn | 26 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move. |
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| nealh | 3 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself. |
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| Climber_Bill | 18 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you. |
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| Climber_Bill | 4 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it. |
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| Climber_Bill | 4 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!! |
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| John Wellbelove | 4 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb. |
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| SteveWright1967 | 31 Mar, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor South
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No Place for Mambas
Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)