Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

12m.

Rockfax Description
A very good series of moves. Start up The Lizard of Oz. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 16/Apr/1994.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
dobby 200 6 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Been rebolted
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Been rebolted
Sash.C 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: poorly bolted and high in the grade, but not a bad route at all. The 'run out' part of the route is all jugs anyway, so nothing to worry about there to be honest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: poorly bolted and high in the grade, but not a bad route at all. The 'run out' part of the route is all jugs anyway, so nothing to worry about there to be honest.

Logged Ascents

233 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 20 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ocean Drive

Grade: 6b ***
(Blacknor Far South)

Loading Notifications...