Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The wall left of a big corner is a bit of an eliminate. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 25/Jul/1998.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Hicks 6 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: total eliminate. agree with ben. and i actually ended up left on pining for glossap at the top! much much better routes around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: total eliminate. agree with ben. and i actually ended up left on pining for glossap at the top! much much better routes around.
chris j 7 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Nice balancy climbing on the top section, the start's a bit wierd though...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice balancy climbing on the top section, the start's a bit wierd though...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Man is an Island

Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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