Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
An eliminate straight up the wall to a fingery finale. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 16/Sep/2004.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very similar to Spontaneous Cattle Combustion, interesting route finding between good pockets followed by a one move tricky crux with feet above the last runner. It will take the place of SCC as everyone's first 7a on-sight. It's really only 6c plus but fortunately won't get demoted till the next guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very similar to Spontaneous Cattle Combustion, interesting route finding between good pockets followed by a one move tricky crux with feet above the last runner. It will take the place of SCC as everyone's first 7a on-sight. It's really only 6c plus but fortunately won't get demoted till the next guide.
Ben Stokes 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A complete gift at the grade...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A complete gift at the grade...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nothing but the Groove

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Coastguard North)

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