Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

Rockfax Description
Climb up the well-worn slab to the groove and first gear. Move up to reach the break, where more gear can be arranged - a skyhook is particularly good here! Mantel up and traverse the break to the first bolt on the route. Move past this with difficulty to reach the second bolt. Above this the climbing is easy, but you have to run it out a long way before you find the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
a good line up the slab to the right of fools gold, solstice, equinox etc. Finishes just right of the clump of trees at the top of the slab. 2 bolts and a double bolt lower off. Start below the first bolt, move up and slightly rightwards to a tricky move at 5m to gain a good hand traverse leading left to the first bolt. A tricky move between the 2 bolts leads to the second bolt and, after a long run out, the top.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Thank god I don't have to do that again , Bold Tradprenticeship , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kieran Broadbridge 3 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top is very slippery when damp
Show beta
βeta: Top is very slippery when damp
Paulos87 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Decent foothold flaked off on crux between bolts
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Decent foothold flaked off on crux between bolts
tonevert 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I found it tougher than knat attack. Straight forward if you head is good at run outs. After second bolt it’s around 10m to lower off. I went left near the top and that was a mistake so had a nervy couple of moves.
Show beta
βeta: I found it tougher than knat attack. Straight forward if you head is good at run outs. After second bolt it’s around 10m to lower off. I went left near the top and that was a mistake so had a nervy couple of moves.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 80
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Emilya

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Min Pistyll)

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