Rockfax Description
An altogether harder offering for those who prefer long and hard instead of just long! Not to be underestimated - 24 pitches, full in the sun with a lot of fairly tough face climbing along the way. Start 30m right of Les enfants on the other side of the goulotte (water-worn gully). Below p14 is mostly friction slab work. The 6b p14 is steeper. After that things ease and the top section can be climbed moving together in two or three massive run-outs. The route is rigged for abseil all the way from the East Ridge (top of p16 ) but this is not recommended in bad weather. Beyond p16 abseiling would be extremely difficult in any weather. In order to move fast you can lead in long double pitches for all except p7, p8 p13 and p14 on a single 80m rope.
1) 5c, 2) 6a+, 3) 5a, 4) 5a, 5) 5c, 6) 5c, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 6a. 10) 6a, 11) 6a+, 12) 6a) 13) 6a, 14) 6b, 15) 6a, 16) 5a, 17) 3c. At this point the route joins Les enfants de dalle for seven more pitches.
18) 3c, 19) 5c, 20) 5c, 21) 4c, 22) 5a, 23) 3c, 24) 4a. © Rockfax

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