Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

25m.

Rockfax Description
A nice flowstone face requiring some balance, but the lower section is awkward and crumbly to cross. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Mar/1995.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
brian watson 10 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tough route! Bit dusty, crux on the flowstone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tough route! Bit dusty, crux on the flowstone.
Phil Davidson 9 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nowt up with it, apart from the rope heave to start, toughy os for the grade mind...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nowt up with it, apart from the rope heave to start, toughy os for the grade mind...
tomrainbow 22 Apr, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Only did the first 25 ft of proper climbing so can't really comment on overall quality/difficulty but these 25ft were by far the worst I have come across in Portland. Beware!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only did the first 25 ft of proper climbing so can't really comment on overall quality/difficulty but these 25ft were by far the worst I have come across in Portland. Beware!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Opposites Attract

Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)

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