Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
26m.
Rockfax Description
The line up the buttress left of a steep grassy ramp. It has some superb flowstone on the upper wall. However, the first half of the route has a good deal of loose, vegetated and dusty rock. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Ward 2002.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| paulhurrell | 27 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Felt very loose and scary, backed off after bolt 3 and ran away. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt very loose and scary, backed off after bolt 3 and ran away. |
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| Derry | 15 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Huge detached block by the second (or third) bolt. Daren't put any weight on it, or belay underneath it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Huge detached block by the second (or third) bolt. Daren't put any weight on it, or belay underneath it! |
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| stow | 22 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: Crapola - plenty of better routes around. Give it a miss. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crapola - plenty of better routes around. Give it a miss. |
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| Michael Simpson | 6 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: I didn't clip the bolt on the left at the start of the flow stone and the rope drag was still bad. cliping the last 2 bolts was the hardest part of the climb. Perhaps my large diameter well used (therefore slighty hairy outer) rope didnt help but I think the barrel shaped middle of the route will always have the potential to cause drag and this needs to be noted in the route description. There are still some loose bands of rock at the start so a loose rock symbol is needed in rockfax or mention in the route description, the belayer needs to stand to the side of the route line ( always a good idea anyway ) Because of this the route is not really suitable for inexperienced climbers: it is not a straightforward clip-up | βeta? | |
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βeta: I didn't clip the bolt on the left at the start of the flow stone and the rope drag was still bad. cliping the last 2 bolts was the hardest part of the climb. Perhaps my large diameter well used (therefore slighty hairy outer) rope didnt help but I think the barrel shaped middle of the route will always have the potential to cause drag and this needs to be noted in the route description. There are still some loose bands of rock at the start so a loose rock symbol is needed in rockfax or mention in the route description, the belayer needs to stand to the side of the route line ( always a good idea anyway ) Because of this the route is not really suitable for inexperienced climbers: it is not a straightforward clip-up |
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| Bry | 24 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: I give it a star! OK, there is loads of dust on the first half of the route, but the moves are ok. I only found one sizeable loose block, which was easily avoided. The flowstone in the upper section is great! Admittedly, going for the lower off felt a bit run out, but I thought this was just me being a ponce (the jugs are all there). Rope drag was certainly not so bad that I couldn't clip. Perhaps the problem is that people expect something safe and easy from a grade 5+ sport route. I mean, for instance, being out of sight of your belayer is not unusual in climbing, is it? Nor are loose holds or having to extend runners. But granted, these are not so common on sport routes, so maybe herein lies the issue. Personally, I would not describe this route as dangerous. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I give it a star! OK, there is loads of dust on the first half of the route, but the moves are ok. I only found one sizeable loose block, which was easily avoided. The flowstone in the upper section is great! Admittedly, going for the lower off felt a bit run out, but I thought this was just me being a ponce (the jugs are all there). Rope drag was certainly not so bad that I couldn't clip. Perhaps the problem is that people expect something safe and easy from a grade 5+ sport route. I mean, for instance, being out of sight of your belayer is not unusual in climbing, is it? Nor are loose holds or having to extend runners. But granted, these are not so common on sport routes, so maybe herein lies the issue. Personally, I would not describe this route as dangerous. |
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| Sami Mandeel | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: No, that's what solvent abuse is about. Climbing is different things to different people. For some, speed soloing just isn't enough (see http://www.ebaumsworld.com/videos/fastrockclimb.html - he's dead now by the way). Some prefer to stay within their comfort zone. Others like to push themselves whilst maintaining an appropriate level of safety (still an element of danger). Imagine an entire island made of superb limestone...Mr Muscle and a hanky anyone? No thanks, I'll have a go at "Go With The Flow" (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=3460). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No, that's what solvent abuse is about. Climbing is different things to different people. For some, speed soloing just isn't enough (see http://www.ebaumsworld.com/videos/fastrockclimb.html - he's dead now by the way). Some prefer to stay within their comfort zone. Others like to push themselves whilst maintaining an appropriate level of safety (still an element of danger). Imagine an entire island made of superb limestone...Mr Muscle and a hanky anyone? No thanks, I'll have a go at "Go With The Flow" (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=3460). |
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| nick w | 3 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: pile of choss stay clear.wear helmets anywhere near | βeta? | |
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βeta: pile of choss stay clear.wear helmets anywhere near |
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| Sash.C | 3 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Ponce? who still uses that word? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ponce? who still uses that word? |
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| Furzy Sleight | 10 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: You lot are all moaning ponces - did this route today and thought it was excellent from top to bottom. In fact so good i did it twice! | βeta? | |
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βeta: You lot are all moaning ponces - did this route today and thought it was excellent from top to bottom. In fact so good i did it twice! |
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| O. C. Curmudgeon | 24 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Wish I'd read this before suggesting trying the route. I was belaying when the leader stepped on a large block near the first bolt which came away and headed straight for me. Luckily I saw it coming and managed to leap out the way. We didn't bother with the rest of the climb after that. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wish I'd read this before suggesting trying the route. I was belaying when the leader stepped on a large block near the first bolt which came away and headed straight for me. Luckily I saw it coming and managed to leap out the way. We didn't bother with the rest of the climb after that. |
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| Fidget | 19 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: I agree with most of these comments (wish I'd read them first) - this route is dangerous, and no way worth 2 stars. It's very dusty and crumbly for the lower half (especially the first two bolts), as parts came away in my hand I had to be careful to drop them over to my left, away from my belayer! There's a large dislodged block just above and to the right of the first bolt (about 50cm long) which you have to be careful not to step on. ALSO - this route is longer than 26m. I've got a 50m rope, and reached the half way point with 2 bolts and the lower off still to go, so had to lower off before having a go at the flowstone section. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agree with most of these comments (wish I'd read them first) - this route is dangerous, and no way worth 2 stars. It's very dusty and crumbly for the lower half (especially the first two bolts), as parts came away in my hand I had to be careful to drop them over to my left, away from my belayer! There's a large dislodged block just above and to the right of the first bolt (about 50cm long) which you have to be careful not to step on. ALSO - this route is longer than 26m. I've got a 50m rope, and reached the half way point with 2 bolts and the lower off still to go, so had to lower off before having a go at the flowstone section. |
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| steve taylor | 29 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Brian - I'm working (with Ben Stokes and Jim Kimber) on the CC guide, not the Rockfax! I'm as surprised about the 2 stars as you are. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brian - I'm working (with Ben Stokes and Jim Kimber) on the CC guide, not the Rockfax! I'm as surprised about the 2 stars as you are. |
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| Phil Murray | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: YUK! Wear a helmet! I know what real rock is like - i've been trad climbing for 12 years - but i backed off this chosspile at bolt number 2. Massive dangerous loose blocks, and a centimetre (i could exaggerate but won't) of dust / powder / rubble on each ledge makes this a very grim start to a route. It really, really needs cleaning. At present i would only do it if my 2nd came up to halfway (due to no visibility of high section from the ground) for a hanging belay. Then, the undoubtedly fine flowstone at the top could be fully enjoyed! A shame cos i was looking forward to the flowstone higher up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: YUK! Wear a helmet! I know what real rock is like - i've been trad climbing for 12 years - but i backed off this chosspile at bolt number 2. Massive dangerous loose blocks, and a centimetre (i could exaggerate but won't) of dust / powder / rubble on each ledge makes this a very grim start to a route. It really, really needs cleaning. At present i would only do it if my 2nd came up to halfway (due to no visibility of high section from the ground) for a hanging belay. Then, the undoubtedly fine flowstone at the top could be fully enjoyed! A shame cos i was looking forward to the flowstone higher up. |
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| Phil Anderson | 11 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: An awful lot of loose rock and general choss in the lower half, followed by reasonable potential for injury in the upper half due to the bulge make this a fairly atypical sport climb. I'm afraid to say I backed off it from about where the flowstone starts getting interesting. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An awful lot of loose rock and general choss in the lower half, followed by reasonable potential for injury in the upper half due to the bulge make this a fairly atypical sport climb. I'm afraid to say I backed off it from about where the flowstone starts getting interesting. |
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| Ben Stokes | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: "It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002..." Agreed! | βeta? | |
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βeta: "It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002..." Agreed! |
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| Sami Mandeel | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Perhaps my comment too was a little misleading. I wasn't blaming the FA for my partners poor ropework as such. But I must say I've never had to use a sling on a bolt before (a long quickdraw would not be long enough). Saying that, we are relatively inexperienced sport climbers - this is something we'll certainly look out for in future. I just think the nature of the rock alone make this one not worth bothering with. Combine that with the friction and lack of visibilty as a result of the bulge and that's even more of a reason. It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Perhaps my comment too was a little misleading. I wasn't blaming the FA for my partners poor ropework as such. But I must say I've never had to use a sling on a bolt before (a long quickdraw would not be long enough). Saying that, we are relatively inexperienced sport climbers - this is something we'll certainly look out for in future. I just think the nature of the rock alone make this one not worth bothering with. Combine that with the friction and lack of visibilty as a result of the bulge and that's even more of a reason. It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002... |
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| Ben Stokes | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Sorry, my comment was a little misleading. I agree the rock in the lower half may be considered as loose, but to blame the FA for your partners poor ropework around the bulge was a little unfair... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry, my comment was a little misleading. I agree the rock in the lower half may be considered as loose, but to blame the FA for your partners poor ropework around the bulge was a little unfair... |
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| Sami Mandeel | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: I beg to differ. I've never seen such bad rock as can be found on the first half. There's litteraly inch-deep piles of dust up there, and even where the rock becomes flowstone, there's at least one DEADLY piece of rock that will happily come out. When was the last time you climbed it Ben? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I beg to differ. I've never seen such bad rock as can be found on the first half. There's litteraly inch-deep piles of dust up there, and even where the rock becomes flowstone, there's at least one DEADLY piece of rock that will happily come out. When was the last time you climbed it Ben? |
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| Ben Stokes | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: I think the rock wasn't your problem; however your poor ropework was. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think the rock wasn't your problem; however your poor ropework was. |
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| Sami Mandeel | 27 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Made the mistake of trying this yesterday. This route is DANGEROUS! The first part of the route has some appalling stone, which literally crumbles away under your hands and feet. I pulled out a chunk of rock about the size of my head (pretty big). The rock does improve a lot after the bulge, but there were still some dodgy sizeable chunks about. Even more dangerous is the bulge itself. The belayer can't see the climber for quite a significant portion, and as the climb is so high, this makes communication especially difficult. My partner got to the LO point and was screaming for slack, which I was paying out by the bucket-load, but there was so much friction in the system that he simply couldn't pull it through. He ended up taking a tremendous fall head-first. Luckily I had the initiative to jump down the side of the hill (where all the green shrubbery is) and stop him from falling a further 4-5 metres. Had I not done this he probably would have hit the bulge face-first (at this height there was a lot of stretch in the rope). Take my advice and don't bother with this one, but if you must be sure to use a long sling in conjuction with your quickdraw at around the 6/7th bolt to keep things running smoothly. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Made the mistake of trying this yesterday. This route is DANGEROUS! The first part of the route has some appalling stone, which literally crumbles away under your hands and feet. I pulled out a chunk of rock about the size of my head (pretty big). The rock does improve a lot after the bulge, but there were still some dodgy sizeable chunks about. Even more dangerous is the bulge itself. The belayer can't see the climber for quite a significant portion, and as the climb is so high, this makes communication especially difficult. My partner got to the LO point and was screaming for slack, which I was paying out by the bucket-load, but there was so much friction in the system that he simply couldn't pull it through. He ended up taking a tremendous fall head-first. Luckily I had the initiative to jump down the side of the hill (where all the green shrubbery is) and stop him from falling a further 4-5 metres. Had I not done this he probably would have hit the bulge face-first (at this height there was a lot of stretch in the rope). Take my advice and don't bother with this one, but if you must be sure to use a long sling in conjuction with your quickdraw at around the 6/7th bolt to keep things running smoothly. |
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Route of Interest
Xavier's Wall
Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)