Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant and worthwhile climb. After an indifferent beginning the climbing improves and builds to a hardish ending. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 20/Mar/1999.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Wilbur 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: good climbing but both me and my partner knocked off plenty of holds. Wearing a helmet to belay is advisable. More traffic would clean it up a bit further and then it'd be worth 2 stars...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good climbing but both me and my partner knocked off plenty of holds. Wearing a helmet to belay is advisable. More traffic would clean it up a bit further and then it'd be worth 2 stars...

Logged Ascents

109 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 9 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ausfahrt

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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