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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

18m.

Rockfax Description
A very nice climb. The long flake and groove with a juggy finish over a roof to a lower-off 3m above. © Rockfax

FA. Helen Heanes Sep/1996.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex More 1 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This routes ok when the conditions are fine, but the huge jug can be full of water justifying the 6a, otherwise easy though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This routes ok when the conditions are fine, but the huge jug can be full of water justifying the 6a, otherwise easy though!
Wilbur 31 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 5+. Complete path upto the roof and then a massive jug to get over it..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 5+. Complete path upto the roof and then a massive jug to get over it..

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troubled water's - extension

Grade: 6a S1 ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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