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USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

18m.

Rockfax Description
Two tricky but rewarding sections between ledges. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes - The name tells of a gnarly first ascent for leader and belayer alike! 09/Jul/1995.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland Sendathon , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Knowles 14 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Badly bolted at the crux. If you messed up the rockover, you could easily hit the ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Badly bolted at the crux. If you messed up the rockover, you could easily hit the ledge
royle883 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Dangerously bolted crux, potential for inverting and hitting the ledge if you fluff the rockover
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dangerously bolted crux, potential for inverting and hitting the ledge if you fluff the rockover
Wilbur 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Getting established in the groove is very exciting! 6b+...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Getting established in the groove is very exciting! 6b+...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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