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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

12m.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant pitch with a fierce crux. Finish with hands on top. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes 27/May/1995.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Emmett 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: approach is a bit steep mind your step. The rock is definitely quite crumbly. Helmets on! Huge piece of rock came off on the 4 to the left of it.
βeta?
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βeta: approach is a bit steep mind your step. The rock is definitely quite crumbly. Helmets on! Huge piece of rock came off on the 4 to the left of it.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: So you know I originally gave it 7a but it spanked Luc P's ass so upped the grade to save his (huge) ego. You can run but you can't hide!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So you know I originally gave it 7a but it spanked Luc P's ass so upped the grade to save his (huge) ego. You can run but you can't hide!
Ben Thorne 19 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Doubt this is 7b, as I bagged it 3rd go. The crux is admittedly hard but the rest is about 6c. Excellent little route though, on the only clean bit of the buttress.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doubt this is 7b, as I bagged it 3rd go. The crux is admittedly hard but the rest is about 6c. Excellent little route though, on the only clean bit of the buttress.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
To Wish the Impossible

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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