Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A great pitch with a bouldery crux. Move up left then head up and right to a blank section. A variety of techniques can be used and it normally requires a dyno! Above, steep moves up perfect tufas lead to a lower-off below the long overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Cornforth 1986.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Farnell 17 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Classic, and a bit more than a one move wonder!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic, and a bit more than a one move wonder!
UKB Shark 17 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: maybe I did the move wrong but I thought it was the living end
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: maybe I did the move wrong but I thought it was the living end

Logged Ascents

66 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 37 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dreaming of Red Rocks

Grade: 7a+ ***
(St. Bees Head)

Loading Notifications...