Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

25m.

Rockfax Description
A route of great character, superbly positioned and on perfect rock. Move up left and traverse left to a peg, now climb direct until a balancy move right gains a position beneath a steep flake-crack. Climb this to a lower-off. Now mainly bolted. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Cleasby 1979. Ed Cleasby breaches the awesome Great Buttress with the help of the very bendy but convenient tree..

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grand Alliance

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Black Crag (Borrowdale))

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