40m. The route follows the sharp spectacularly exposed arête on the West side of the Needle. Great adventure, abseil in (either leave rope to prussic out or climb out on Stinky Phoo (E1))..
Start: Move along the South wall on a small ledge to the base of the arête. Belay here, or climb the short wall to a small platform and belay from there to reduce rope drag. Climb from the platform diagonally rightward to gain the arête. Climb this to the top. Beware of loose rock near the summit.
Abseil descent down the north face to the start ledge - you may wish add to the collection of discoloured slings.


M. Barry, P. Quinn, T. Macken Jul/2004.

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Ireland 3 Star VS

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User Date Notes
slowmotion 13 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Seagull with chick nesting on ledge near the top. I stressed the family out quite a lot by passing by but you can\'t see them until you\'re right there. Maybe best to avoid the route until it fledges.
βeta?
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βeta: Seagull with chick nesting on ledge near the top. I stressed the family out quite a lot by passing by but you can't see them until you're right there. Maybe best to avoid the route until it fledges.
Seán Fortune 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: ab tat in good nick at the moment (Sep 20)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ab tat in good nick at the moment (Sep 20)

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(Dunshean Head)

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