75m, 3 pitches.
No description has been contributed for this climb.
Chris Jackson & R. Conway 30/Jun/1985.
Ticklists
Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 31 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A remarkable route. Sunny at first on our ascent, and then pretty chilly in the wind as the sun moved round (yet. remarkably midgeless for our mid-April tour). Magnificent views from the second belay back across the loch. Other remarks on following the route are spot on. Our only difficulties were finding the approach trail (stay close to the rock faces - a little unpleasant otherwise), and figuring the line on pitch 3 (it is indeed the dirty and stiff diagonal short crack, not the horizontal feature along the wall). Otherwise, a little surprised to see so many votes for an mid-E1. You must all be sooo strong... This is an unusual route with some odd and rather troubling moves on pitch 1, and sustained climbing on pitch 2. A bit of a classic in its own way really.. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: A remarkable route. Sunny at first on our ascent, and then pretty chilly in the wind as the sun moved round (yet. remarkably midgeless for our mid-April tour). Magnificent views from the second belay back across the loch. Other remarks on following the route are spot on. Our only difficulties were finding the approach trail (stay close to the rock faces - a little unpleasant otherwise), and figuring the line on pitch 3 (it is indeed the dirty and stiff diagonal short crack, not the horizontal feature along the wall). Otherwise, a little surprised to see so many votes for an mid-E1. You must all be sooo strong... This is an unusual route with some odd and rather troubling moves on pitch 1, and sustained climbing on pitch 2. A bit of a classic in its own way really.. |
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| steveb2006 | 25 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: On the first pitch it seems natural to just follow the obvious line rightwards into the gully and belay on a sapling and block with a rope round it on a small but ok stance. The GL guide suggests climbing higher before the gully to belay on a larger tree. From this lower stance the 'obvious line' just R is a dead end. You have to udge up the chimney a couple of moves to gain the diagonal crack. Not obvious initially. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: On the first pitch it seems natural to just follow the obvious line rightwards into the gully and belay on a sapling and block with a rope round it on a small but ok stance. The GL guide suggests climbing higher before the gully to belay on a larger tree. From this lower stance the 'obvious line' just R is a dead end. You have to udge up the chimney a couple of moves to gain the diagonal crack. Not obvious initially. |
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Route of Interest
Black Ripple
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Scallasaig Crag)