Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
An excellent and fairly popular route.1) 5c, 19m. Climb the wall leftwards to a vague grassy groove. Follow it, past a peg, to an old bolt then make hard moves past this. Move up to a sloping ledge below the level of the cave and belay on some large gear.2) 5c, 21m. Climb up to the break and step right to below a corner. Pull up this and follow it to a sloping ledge. Take the ledge leftwards to join Carnage. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. R.Brown, M.White (aid) 1964. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1972.
Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Big Ron routes for mortals , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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phatlad | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: An ok route, and not worth 5c, but an amusing traverse near the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: An ok route, and not worth 5c, but an amusing traverse near the top |
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UKB Shark | 28 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Saw you on it and inspired to do it the following weekend. I did it in one pitch but traversed left too early from groove on the 2nd pitch - a mistake I am sure I made when I last did it - 20 years ago. A great route spoilt only by poor rock on the first 20 feet. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Saw you on it and inspired to do it the following weekend. I did it in one pitch but traversed left too early from groove on the 2nd pitch - a mistake I am sure I made when I last did it - 20 years ago. A great route spoilt only by poor rock on the first 20 feet. |
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Grinning Donkey | 21 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Quite surprised!! Did this route 20/03/05 and expected it to be polished to hell. Well it wasn't, the rock was sound and it was also very clean. Wey hey...... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Quite surprised!! Did this route 20/03/05 and expected it to be polished to hell. Well it wasn't, the rock was sound and it was also very clean. Wey hey...... |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Almscliff)