Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Good moves on spaced side-pulls and crimps. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The large block at the top (above the last bolt) is no longer in place but moving left slightly allows it to be finished at the same grade without touching the remains of the block.

FA. Tony Burnell, Martin Berzins, Dave Green 1986.

Ticklists

28 Decent Sport Routes , Quarantine Comeback Yorkshire Psyche , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
GabyT 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Foot hold broken off, small but usable shard remains.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Foot hold broken off, small but usable shard remains.
Fiend 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A pleasant route with some sort of line, albeit mostly of chalk! Easy to flash as everything is obvious from the ground, although the start is poky and took me a bit of up-and-downing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A pleasant route with some sort of line, albeit mostly of chalk! Easy to flash as everything is obvious from the ground, although the start is poky and took me a bit of up-and-downing.
Andy Farnell 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice warm up if others are busy. Easier to onsight than Consenting as it's not as blind.
Show beta
βeta: A nice warm up if others are busy. Easier to onsight than Consenting as it's not as blind.
Daimon - Rockfax 16 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A very good 7A Technical start for a reachy finnish on some fine jugs (At top) Recently had the first bolt re added. 2 Stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A very good 7A Technical start for a reachy finnish on some fine jugs (At top) Recently had the first bolt re added. 2 Stars

Logged Ascents

644 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 41 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 98
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pimp with a Limp

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Trow Gill)

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