100m, 3 pitches.
1.(6a) Climb Slochd wall to the peg runner. Continue up the groove almost up to the roof on the right. Place a high runner before stepping down. Make crimpy moves up and right to gain a standing position under the roof on the arete. .75 camelot over the overlap on the right. Step right round the arete to the obvious foot ledge then pull directly over the roof. Step left to a hanging belay to the left of overhangs.
2.(6a) Step up and right to pull rightwards through the roof. (Dirty will clean up with traffic) Gain a standing position on the small arete to the right. Either continue rightwards to cracks before stepping back left to climb the arete in an amzing position or (original description) from the standing postition on the arete head up left (bold?) to gain the arete.
3. Finish up the top wall on the left.
A brilliant route that will improve on the 2nd pitch once cleaned up with traffic.
2.(6a) Step up and right to pull rightwards through the roof. (Dirty will clean up with traffic) Gain a standing position on the small arete to the right. Either continue rightwards to cracks before stepping back left to climb the arete in an amzing position or (original description) from the standing postition on the arete head up left (bold?) to gain the arete.
3. Finish up the top wall on the left.
A brilliant route that will improve on the 2nd pitch once cleaned up with traffic.
Guy Robertson & Pete Benson Aug/2007.
Ticklists
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
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Route of Interest
Sans Fer / Iron in the Soul
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Creag an Dubh-loch)