Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A very good way up the wall that links the lower section of Against the Grain with the finish of Space Race via a prominent small corner. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 1996.

Ticklists

Steve Crowe Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Farnell 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt 7b to me. Long and pumpy with some fantastic moves, not as technial as the shorter routes on the right, but it makes up for it with it's length and sustained nature.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt 7b to me. Long and pumpy with some fantastic moves, not as technial as the shorter routes on the right, but it makes up for it with it's length and sustained nature.
wibble 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I always thought it was called Face Race. I might be mistaken but I am sure I was climbing on it back in 93/94.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I always thought it was called Face Race. I might be mistaken but I am sure I was climbing on it back in 93/94.
Steve Crowe 18 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: erm... Others had climbed this link up before karin and myself!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: erm... Others had climbed this link up before karin and myself!
Dave Musgrove 27 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: When I did it a few years ago, and it took me a few attempts, I thought 7a+. However that was when we all thought Yosemite Wall was a standard 7a, but there is now a feeling that that is 7a+. If thats the case I feel that most of the shorter, old 7a routes on the right side of the catwalk are technically much harder than both these routes. Dave
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When I did it a few years ago, and it took me a few attempts, I thought 7a+. However that was when we all thought Yosemite Wall was a standard 7a, but there is now a feeling that that is 7a+. If thats the case I feel that most of the shorter, old 7a routes on the right side of the catwalk are technically much harder than both these routes. Dave
Ian Patterson 26 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Is this really 7b, similar to Yosemite Wall in difficulty, less pumpy but more techinal and seemed more than a half grade easier than Space Race to me. Great route anyway with an exiting section through the bulges.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is this really 7b, similar to Yosemite Wall in difficulty, less pumpy but more techinal and seemed more than a half grade easier than Space Race to me. Great route anyway with an exiting section through the bulges.

Logged Ascents

247 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 84 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Endeavour

Grade: 7b ***
(Langcliffe Quarry)

Loading Notifications...