UKH Hills - 'Against the Grain'

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

Last update: 23/05/2023

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22m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent link-up that has lost holds in its upper section and pushed the grade up from 7a. Climb to join Yosemite Wall and pull up through a steep bulge to an easing. Move leftwards across small corners and bulges to a lower-off. A useful variation is to start up Against the Grain and then finish up Yosemite Wall to give Against the Wall, 7a+ - this avoids the often wet start to Yosemite Wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular and strenuous route which starts up the old route...

FA. Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 24/May/1996.

Ticklists

Very good routes in the UK , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Steve Crowe Routes , Steve & Karin’s New Routes , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Call ._ d	28 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: quite confusing where this goes, seems you can join yosemite wall earlier or, just after the permadraw, then again 2 different ways to join yosemite wall here hard left or up 11 clock, confusing line which may explain grade difference opinions	βeta?
Show beta βeta: quite confusing where this goes, seems you can join yosemite wall earlier or, just after the permadraw, then again 2 different ways to join yosemite wall here hard left or up 11 clock, confusing line which may explain grade difference opinions
Rich Kirby	18 May, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Really good 3 star route, bang on at 7a if you look for footholds and get the knee bar.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Really good 3 star route, bang on at 7a if you look for footholds and get the knee bar.
richardh	27 Jun, 2005	Show βeta βeta: It's a long way down if a hold snaps when you're just about eye-level with the belay :) No change in difficulty.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: It's a long way down if a hold snaps when you're just about eye-level with the belay :) No change in difficulty.
GDes	8 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: solid 7a, very steady until the crux near the end, which is fine once figured out. nowhere near 7b. excellent route	βeta?
Show beta βeta: solid 7a, very steady until the crux near the end, which is fine once figured out. nowhere near 7b. excellent route
Tyler	29 Jul, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Third bolt is a real gripper and given that the holds beneath it must always be slimey (they were today and the crag was bone dry) could do with a couple more bolts. A lot of steep climbing for 7a, must be 7a+	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Third bolt is a real gripper and given that the holds beneath it must always be slimey (they were today and the crag was bone dry) could do with a couple more bolts. A lot of steep climbing for 7a, must be 7a+
richardh	2 Jul, 2004	Show βeta βeta: possibly as hard as Appetite, but no harder and nowhere near 7b. Plenty of bolts and plenty clean enough, I think you must have been somewhat off route?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: possibly as hard as Appetite, but no harder and nowhere near 7b. Plenty of bolts and plenty clean enough, I think you must have been somewhat off route?
Daimon - Rockfax	10 Jun, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Very Long, very pumpy and harder than Yosemite wall I think. Needs some more bolts placing. Not a very clean route Ie mixed in a bit to much with some other routes. I got lost on it. 7B	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very Long, very pumpy and harder than Yosemite wall I think. Needs some more bolts placing. Not a very clean route Ie mixed in a bit to much with some other routes. I got lost on it. 7B