Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.
Rockfax Description
A classic Yorkshire E5 with excellent but unnerving climbing. Ascend the grassy ramp and move up to good holds. Stand on the good holds and climb to the main break via a flake - peg. There is a bush at the break with a peg and old bolt above and to the left. Gain a shallow groove on the left which leads to a ledge. Climb over the bulge and then pull round the roof to finish up a groove - peg. Lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Gomersall, Duncan Drake 1980. Pete Gomersall starts his Blue Scar campaign. The first route to tackle the main challenge of the crag..
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Yorkshire Limestone top 50
User | Date | Notes | ||
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nigel baker | 22 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: Wrong grading system Ashley,Its not a sports climb!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wrong grading system Ashley,Its not a sports climb!! |
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Tyler | 21 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: About F6c or 6c+. Not all over once you get the peg and huge jug five feet from the lower off....unfortunately. | βeta? | |
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βeta: About F6c or 6c+. Not all over once you get the peg and huge jug five feet from the lower off....unfortunately. |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Malham Cove)