Restricted Access

Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.

28m.

Rockfax Description
A classic Yorkshire E5 with excellent but unnerving climbing. Ascend the grassy ramp and move up to good holds. Stand on the good holds and climb to the main break via a flake - peg. There is a bush at the break with a peg and old bolt above and to the left. Gain a shallow groove on the left which leads to a ledge. Climb over the bulge and then pull round the roof to finish up a groove - peg. Lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Gomersall, Duncan Drake 1980. Pete Gomersall starts his Blue Scar campaign. The first route to tackle the main challenge of the crag..

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Yorkshire Limestone top 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
nigel baker 22 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Wrong grading system Ashley,Its not a sports climb!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wrong grading system Ashley,Its not a sports climb!!
Tyler 21 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: About F6c or 6c+. Not all over once you get the peg and huge jug five feet from the lower off....unfortunately.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: About F6c or 6c+. Not all over once you get the peg and huge jug five feet from the lower off....unfortunately.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blue Scar

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
El Coronel

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Malham Cove)

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