1000m.

Rockfax Description
IV, 1000m, 6 - 8 hours. A stunning line where good conditions are rare but essential if the route is to bear any resemblance to this description. When dry, it is hard, loose and scary. If you get it good, the climbing is fantastic and the ambience amazing. The belays are not fixed so exactly how you break up the pitches may vary. Climb the Eugster Diagonal and continue straight up where it branches off left. A further 200m of gradually steepening snow leads to the five proper pitches.
1) Follow 50m of 70 degree ice and belay on the right.
2) Step left and climb 15m of 85 degree ice. Ignore the line going straight up and, instead, move left and continue up to a ridge and a spike belay 5m higher.
3) Stay on the left of the gully and climb enjoyable mixed ground for 50m to a stance below a huge jammed block.
4) Climb thin ice to the block and get around it on the right. Continue up the gully to belay on the left beneath the final icy runnel. A long pitch!
5) The crux pitch, which is harder than it initially appears. Climb the runnel and pass a steepening after 20m to reach easier ground. (If the steepening is not climbable, it is usually possible to escape out leftwards to join the final snow slopes.)
Finish up the final snow slopes of the Mallory-Porter. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alpine Grande Courses

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

22 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Aiguille du Midi

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 46 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Charmoz - Grepon via Cordier Pillar

Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Charmoz Grepon)

Loading Notifications...