Rockfax Description
A brilliant first pitch with great moves and good rock.
1) 6a, 30m. Start below a short hanging corner. Pull though a bulge onto a slab (usually a bit left of the corner). Move up to the roof then trend up leftwards to a peg. Make a hard move back right underneath the peg then step up to a ledge. Continue to a break then up past a thread to a short groove on the left. Climb up then step right and move up to the breaks and traverse off left to a tree and good bolt belay. Best to finish here.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb up the dirty groove above and wish you had abseiled off. © Rockfax

FA. Al Austin, B.Fuller (Aid) 1961. FFA. P.Livesey, J.Sheard 1972.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Good E4s , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , 3* Extreme Northern Trad

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User Date Notes
Misha 17 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a fairly new lower off above the top break so there’s no need to traverse left and it’s possible to strip the gear when lowering off. The thread tat is currently in good condition and the route is clean.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a fairly new lower off above the top break so there’s no need to traverse left and it’s possible to strip the gear when lowering off. The thread tat is currently in good condition and the route is clean.

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High 6b
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Votes cast 40
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Psychosis

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Smugglers Terrace)

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