20m.

Rockfax Description
A popular classic that heads straight up the steepening wall right of Exponential Exhaustion. There is a poor rest below the roof before a big spike-jug provides the key to the finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Lovatt, Ian Horrocks 1988. A large wobbly jug went AWOL in the late 1990's and the grade went up to 8a. It has now been restored to its original grade by the addition of a similar large jug..

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , Northern Limestone for Catalans , 2019 Targets , Sporty Spice , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
tintinandpip 2 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Originally did this in 1989, repeated it a few times over the years, nice to do it again.
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βeta: Originally did this in 1989, repeated it a few times over the years, nice to do it again.
andy jennings 7 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. Spaced bolting is intimidating but actually makes sense when you're on it, the climbing is so sustained and absorbing that clipping more bolts would just be hard! Worth using a clipstick to hang the 3rd draw.
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βeta: Superb route. Spaced bolting is intimidating but actually makes sense when you're on it, the climbing is so sustained and absorbing that clipping more bolts would just be hard! Worth using a clipstick to hang the 3rd draw.
RD 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The bolts are spaced - stupid bolting! If you've dogged it to the top with a clip stick it's a straight forward route to RP. On-sight with no prior knowledge it's harder to clip the bolts than to climb it!
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βeta: The bolts are spaced - stupid bolting! If you've dogged it to the top with a clip stick it's a straight forward route to RP. On-sight with no prior knowledge it's harder to clip the bolts than to climb it!
Andy Farnell 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree it's solid 7c. The bottom wall is the crux but you need a bit in reserve for the finish. Bolts are spaced, adding character...
βeta?
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βeta: I'd agree it's solid 7c. The bottom wall is the crux but you need a bit in reserve for the finish. Bolts are spaced, adding character...
RD 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: solid 7c even with the bigger hold - the crux was always the lower part. Shame that the bolts are so badly positioned - best to ask someone else to put the quickdraws in for you!
βeta?
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βeta: solid 7c even with the bigger hold - the crux was always the lower part. Shame that the bolts are so badly positioned - best to ask someone else to put the quickdraws in for you!
Mick Lovatt 10 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Has now been re-bolted (eventually)! I'll sort out that glue-on later in the summer.. can't have a route of mine put down into the punter stakes! but then again I suppose it always was? The route name was an American import (nothing to do with climbing though) Full title " A Biological Need For A Boys Night Out"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has now been re-bolted (eventually)! I'll sort out that glue-on later in the summer.. can't have a route of mine put down into the punter stakes! but then again I suppose it always was? The route name was an American import (nothing to do with climbing though) Full title " A Biological Need For A Boys Night Out"

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sunset Brown

Grade: 7c ***
(Giggleswick North)

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