Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wandering but very useful couple of pitches on good rock and with good protection. Start as for Old Faithful.
1) 4c, 14m. Move up to a thin crack/groove on the right and climb it with difficulty to the faultline and belay.
2) 4c, 22m. Move right around the arete and climb a tough crack to a ledge. Traverse back left for 6m and move up to join and finish as for Old Faithful. © Rockfax

FA. T.Baker, R.J.Crewe 13/Sep/1975.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 4
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freda

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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