Rockfax Description
An outstanding route marking a step forward in hard limestone climbing. It had a controversial history intitally around the validity of the first ascent and later as it gained and lost bolts. It has now settled down at a four-bolt sport route providing that you pre-clip the first bolt with a stick clip - award yourself a top end E6 without this. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone. © Rockfax
FA. R.Fawcett 5.82. It was originally climbed with old-style yo-yo techniques. A visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it Gandalf Le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gai May/1982.
Ticklists
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , James' Summer Ticklist , The Festival Of Shite , Hannahs Peak Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| remus | 22 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: 3.6m clipstick + a tall-ish friend was long enough to clip the first bolt. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 3.6m clipstick + a tall-ish friend was long enough to clip the first bolt. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower
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The Jug Jockey
Grade: 7c+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)