Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
Quality climbing up the wall just to the right. Climb the wall to the break and stand in it. Step right then make hard pulls to a good hold. Climb to a down-pointing spike then move left to another good hold. Move back up right to the belay at the break. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Has undergone critical maintenance and now includes a replica Crux hold, making it worthwhile once more and not ridiculously unbalanced.
FA. Chris Wright 1996.
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Business 2022 / 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
craig d | 30 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Possibly no longer climable as small razor flake pulled off yesterday. With the flake the route felt like 7C+, without it who knows. There is a tiny (and I mean TINY!!) two finger crimp which you can reach with your left hand off the undercuts, and it could be possible to rock up to the big hold by the 3rd bolt. Good climbing on the upper wall. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Possibly no longer climable as small razor flake pulled off yesterday. With the flake the route felt like 7C+, without it who knows. There is a tiny (and I mean TINY!!) two finger crimp which you can reach with your left hand off the undercuts, and it could be possible to rock up to the big hold by the 3rd bolt. Good climbing on the upper wall. |
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Grade: 7b+ ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)