Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent - probably the best of its grade on the wall. Climb the bulge right of High Society with difficulty at the start - clip-stick handy. Continue more easily to the break, above which a final test of your fitness awaits. Finish at good holds above the belay. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Hardy 1989.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , World Graded List , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , Hardy Routes , Peak sport for mortals , Lime trad for hobbyists , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
CLH387 18 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A few people have commented that the start needs an extra bolt.. it’s my route so feel free to add an extra one if necessary. Re the comments about the starting jug is now missing… there never was one! Hardest bit of the route was always the first 20 feet
βeta?
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βeta: A few people have commented that the start needs an extra bolt.. it’s my route so feel free to add an extra one if necessary. Re the comments about the starting jug is now missing… there never was one! Hardest bit of the route was always the first 20 feet
LBrown 23 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Finishing jug no longer hanging in there. New sequence seems only marginally harder and the new holds smaller but helpful. The rock revealed underneath the jug looks solid and could take a bolt and, possibly, chains, if they were not deemed too low and were thought preferable to the current set up with the tree.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finishing jug no longer hanging in there. New sequence seems only marginally harder and the new holds smaller but helpful. The rock revealed underneath the jug looks solid and could take a bolt and, possibly, chains, if they were not deemed too low and were thought preferable to the current set up with the tree.
stp 14 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A long quickdraw on the second bolt prevents the rope chafing in the event of a fall.
βeta?
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βeta: A long quickdraw on the second bolt prevents the rope chafing in the event of a fall.
dominic lee 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Finishing jug still hanging in there.. not as fragile as it looks.
βeta?
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βeta: Finishing jug still hanging in there.. not as fragile as it looks.
Mark Lloyd 5 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The starting jug has now gone, and the top one has a limited lifetime. p.s it wasn't me.
βeta?
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βeta: The starting jug has now gone, and the top one has a limited lifetime. p.s it wasn't me.
mark s 26 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: im tall and i had to slap for it. 3 star route,great climbing
βeta?
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βeta: im tall and i had to slap for it. 3 star route,great climbing

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whose Line is it Anyway?

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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