Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

26m.

Rockfax Description
Follow Solstice to where it moves right after its crux and make a tough pull to gain a hanging groove. Follow this to the top via some good moves and small gear. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Solstice and just after halfway from the curved flake line a thin groove leads directly to the top.

A George, T Taylor 23/Jun/1985.

Ticklists

AMC Uni Ticklist , 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday , Wales Trip - 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 17 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed with previous post - a few loose bits on left side of direct as you top out, which are right above your belayer
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed with previous post - a few loose bits on left side of direct as you top out, which are right above your belayer
BoldyMcBoldface 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose flakes, some at the junction with original route and some at the top of the direct
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose flakes, some at the junction with original route and some at the top of the direct

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
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Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 39
High 6a
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Votes cast 40
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Wasp

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))

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