Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
A fine route which is one of the best of its grade in the Peak. Very sustained, with a harder move to reach the roof. Climb a flake to a peg. Step across left to another flake (high or low), then pull up with difficulty (peg above) to below the roof. Pull over to gain a bucket then tiptoe right across the slab. Climb up a groove to the top and a tree lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Moore, J.Ballard (aid) 1969. FFA. Gabriel Reagan, Al Evans 1976.
Ticklists
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Lime trad for hobbyists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Katya | 31 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Mike, like ted I agree with most of what you say. The 'just don't clip it then' argument is flawed though, and has been discussed too many times already... When I led the route earlier this year, I was paying attention to the bolt placements, and I can assure you that 1, 2 and 5 were easilly clippable without going off line, simply by reaching out left for 1 from the initital crack, clipping halfway along the traverse (at the rest) by your feet for the 2nd. I nearlly chopped them then, but then found out it was your project and I thought I'd speak to you about it first - simply havn't seen you since then... You ask, 'are we being dictated to how we should climb in Britain?' - well I think the answer is yes. There would be outrage if somene were to come along and bolt up projects on the Chee Tor changing the character of surrounding routes. In fact I think there is a 'no more bolting rule' there already. Just because there is already signifigant bolt development on Two Tier doesn't mean that the whole crag is up for grabs (though nearlly...). Think about the impact on other routes, especially ones as good as Mad Dogs. My previous comments weren't about a conflict between trad and sport, I enjoy them both equally, and fully appreciate the work you have done helping to create the wonderful resource that we now have down there. I just think we need to preserve the handful of high quality trad routes that we have. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Mike, like ted I agree with most of what you say. The 'just don't clip it then' argument is flawed though, and has been discussed too many times already... When I led the route earlier this year, I was paying attention to the bolt placements, and I can assure you that 1, 2 and 5 were easilly clippable without going off line, simply by reaching out left for 1 from the initital crack, clipping halfway along the traverse (at the rest) by your feet for the 2nd. I nearlly chopped them then, but then found out it was your project and I thought I'd speak to you about it first - simply havn't seen you since then... You ask, 'are we being dictated to how we should climb in Britain?' - well I think the answer is yes. There would be outrage if somene were to come along and bolt up projects on the Chee Tor changing the character of surrounding routes. In fact I think there is a 'no more bolting rule' there already. Just because there is already signifigant bolt development on Two Tier doesn't mean that the whole crag is up for grabs (though nearlly...). Think about the impact on other routes, especially ones as good as Mad Dogs. My previous comments weren't about a conflict between trad and sport, I enjoy them both equally, and fully appreciate the work you have done helping to create the wonderful resource that we now have down there. I just think we need to preserve the handful of high quality trad routes that we have. |
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| teddy | 29 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I respect your comments and agree with a lot of what you say. However, your ideas about bolts that can be clipped on trad routes do not add up. The whole point of a trad route is to climb without bolts. So if there is one to clip and you are in 'extremis', you always have the option to clip it and escape in safety if you have to to get out of danger. This takes away from the experience of trad climbing where the aim is to put yourself in a position of having to rely only upon your wires/ friends and climbing prowess. The fact that you might overextend yourself and 'run it out' with no way of putting in gear would spoil the experience with the mere fact of a bolt being available, even if you don't clip it. Think about it and try to respect British trad climbing heritage before you bolt. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I respect your comments and agree with a lot of what you say. However, your ideas about bolts that can be clipped on trad routes do not add up. The whole point of a trad route is to climb without bolts. So if there is one to clip and you are in 'extremis', you always have the option to clip it and escape in safety if you have to to get out of danger. This takes away from the experience of trad climbing where the aim is to put yourself in a position of having to rely only upon your wires/ friends and climbing prowess. The fact that you might overextend yourself and 'run it out' with no way of putting in gear would spoil the experience with the mere fact of a bolt being available, even if you don't clip it. Think about it and try to respect British trad climbing heritage before you bolt. |
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| Katya | 18 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well, it is one of the best E3 trads route in the peak and its a shame its been compromised by this project. You can clip 3 of the bolts (1, 2, and 5) from Mad Dogs. There is plenty of rock to make indifferent 7C's out of down there, there's not so many 3* E3's in the Peak. A Fairer solution would be for the project to start up MD on trad gear, then break out on the new line, thus leaving the origional route unchanged, if it has to be there at all. Better still the bolts should go, and a Peak classic that is still very regulary climbed left well alone. Was discussed here - didn't seem to be much support for the bolts... http://www.rockfax.com/forums/t.php?t=59567 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Well, it is one of the best E3 trads route in the peak and its a shame its been compromised by this project. You can clip 3 of the bolts (1, 2, and 5) from Mad Dogs. There is plenty of rock to make indifferent 7C's out of down there, there's not so many 3* E3's in the Peak. A Fairer solution would be for the project to start up MD on trad gear, then break out on the new line, thus leaving the origional route unchanged, if it has to be there at all. Better still the bolts should go, and a Peak classic that is still very regulary climbed left well alone. Was discussed here - didn't seem to be much support for the bolts... http://www.rockfax.com/forums/t.php?t=59567 |
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Logged Ascents
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Robert Brown
Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)