Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

16m.

Rockfax Description
An immaculate hard route on perfect rock. It is now finished direct with the addition of a new belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Finishes direct past the last bolt over the overlap and does not span right into the jugs and last bolt of Flow. Spanning right misses out the last 3/4 hard moves.

FA. Rupert Davies Jul/2003.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up , Definitive *** Peak Lime

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jamierankin 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First of the grade for me, but felt considerably harder than any 8a+ I've done. Amazing moves, basically two hard boulder problems in a row followed by a few easier moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First of the grade for me, but felt considerably harder than any 8a+ I've done. Amazing moves, basically two hard boulder problems in a row followed by a few easier moves.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Love Amongst the Butterflies

Grade: 8b ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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