Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
The unlikely-looking bulges require a determined sequence of pulls on some unhelpful, but just sufficient, holds and pockets. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1985.
Ticklists
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Farnell | 26 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definately 7b. Much harder than Countdown, Max to the Wall or Open Gate. Blind moves on not so helpful holds, powerful and balancy, with some long reaches. Very good climbing, which feels bold given the 3 bolts in its length. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definately 7b. Much harder than Countdown, Max to the Wall or Open Gate. Blind moves on not so helpful holds, powerful and balancy, with some long reaches. Very good climbing, which feels bold given the 3 bolts in its length. |
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| Neil Binns | 17 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt like 7b to me. Feels harder than any of the 7a+s I've done in Cheedale. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Felt like 7b to me. Feels harder than any of the 7a+s I've done in Cheedale. |
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| Nige M | 1 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure how this has got to be 7b in the book. There are plenty of harder 7a+'s than this. Grade creep in action. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure how this has got to be 7b in the book. There are plenty of harder 7a+'s than this. Grade creep in action. |
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| north country boy | 30 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: So when and why was this downgraded from 7b? Solid 7b with distinct bouldery crux which is too hard to be 7a+! Lost a star aswell since Northern Limestone was published? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: So when and why was this downgraded from 7b? Solid 7b with distinct bouldery crux which is too hard to be 7a+! Lost a star aswell since Northern Limestone was published? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper
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Countdown
Grade: 7b ***
(Chee Dale Upper)