Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the centre of the technical face, trending slightly (but not too far) rightwards, then go direct to a good finish on the headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Nick Taylor, Andy Beaumont 2002.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport for mortals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07
Fiend 24 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Good route with two tricky sections (both involving thumbsprags and high steps!) and a neat slabby bit. The top feels fairly committing. Good F6c I think.
Show beta
βeta: Good route with two tricky sections (both involving thumbsprags and high steps!) and a neat slabby bit. The top feels fairly committing. Good F6c I think.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Private Prosecution

Grade: 6c ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)

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