Restricted Access
Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
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No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
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Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
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Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
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Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
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Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
Rockfax Description
A woodland classic taking the slopey lip traverse right to left. Start with right foot on a low edge on the right arete and traverse slopers on the lip left (stick to the slopers on the lip at the end and don't exit early up The Cuckoo's Nest at this grade). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The awesome, Font-like right to left traverse starting from good low foothold on the right arête, traversing the slopey lip to the left arête and then topping out.
Dave Henderson 2004.
Ticklists
Bovey Woods , Dartmoor , The Art of the Granite Crab , MoorMan Magic , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A+ & Above) , Bovey Woods Top 20 , JaVu's Hard Dartmoor Bouldering ~2008
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bovey Woods
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Aurora
Grade: f7B ***
(Cuckoo Rock and Combeshead Tor)