20m.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic testpieces of the Peak - polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years. Head diagonally right with testing moves to clip the old peg (beware of runners in the undercut; they may appear better than they are). Move up to the break, swing up and left and tackle the upper crack past an awkward-to-place runner. © Rockfax

FA. Gabriel Reagan, Geoff Birtles 1976.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , 50 cracks to Squamish , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , Best Before 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
phatlad 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Have to disagree slightly with Alun, don't head left it's a kop out. stick with the pumpfest crack. Great route really enjoyed it surprised that I have avoided it for so long, but I guess that's down to Stoney's reputation.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have to disagree slightly with Alun, don't head left it's a kop out. stick with the pumpfest crack. Great route really enjoyed it surprised that I have avoided it for so long, but I guess that's down to Stoney's reputation.
Alun 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Sustained, technical and slippery to get past the peg and reach the second break and okay rest. Make sure you head slightly left from here before heading for the tree, don't go straight up as I did!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sustained, technical and slippery to get past the peg and reach the second break and okay rest. Make sure you head slightly left from here before heading for the tree, don't go straight up as I did!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 64
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nectar

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage North)

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