Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack gives a good sustained pitch with a mixture of loose and polished holds. Finish either rightwards, leftwards or direct over the bulge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start up the short wall below the central crack then move left to the left-hand crack. Finish either rightwards, leftwards or direct over the bulge.
Note, an older edition the Rockfax had the lines mixed up.
FA. Joe Brown 1950.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan Blakeman | 30 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Two large cams make the pro a tad easier - 3 or even 4 would make it 'bliss'. I rifled thro' lots of birds nest twigs & muck to find 2 excellent large hex placements as well in the wide section. The polish is not really a problem as on much of the other easier Stoney stuff. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Two large cams make the pro a tad easier - 3 or even 4 would make it 'bliss'. I rifled thro' lots of birds nest twigs & muck to find 2 excellent large hex placements as well in the wide section. The polish is not really a problem as on much of the other easier Stoney stuff. |
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| cem | 28 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route, but go right at the top, NOT over the bulge or leftwards where it's horribly chossy and vegetated. Having looked at the bulge option, I decided to go leftwards: a big mistake as the top out is horrendous. I came peeling off backwards, along with various bits of vegetation and several loose blocks. Luckily neither I, my belayer, nor any passers by were hurt. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A good route, but go right at the top, NOT over the bulge or leftwards where it's horribly chossy and vegetated. Having looked at the bulge option, I decided to go leftwards: a big mistake as the top out is horrendous. I came peeling off backwards, along with various bits of vegetation and several loose blocks. Luckily neither I, my belayer, nor any passers by were hurt. |
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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton
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Saul's Arête
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Plantation)