130m, 3 pitches. The rib between The Runnel finishing up the steeper rocks. Start at the base of the rib and climb the prominent groove to easier ground. There is now an easy finish parallel to the Runnel. The route takes either of the two deep grooves in the crest of the buttress. The left groove has a smooth start and is entered from the left to climb past an obvious small chokestone. The right hand groove is climbed direct and steepens to an awkward bulge which leads to a platform overlooking crotched gully. Step left into a narrow chimney leading to an easy finish.

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User Date Notes
Richwak 16 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Deep powder and saturated snow underneath made for an interesting swim. Took the right hand groove at the top which had very poor protection. Grade IV today
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Deep powder and saturated snow underneath made for an interesting swim. Took the right hand groove at the top which had very poor protection. Grade IV today
Butel 15 Feb Show βeta
βeta: This is not III 4 in lean conditions like many have mentioned. The left hand groove is poorly protected and requires good snow or ice to be climbed confidently. Just be aware if this grade is your limit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is not III 4 in lean conditions like many have mentioned. The left hand groove is poorly protected and requires good snow or ice to be climbed confidently. Just be aware if this grade is your limit.
Alexander_Metcalfe 14 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Good piece of tat to the left of the gulley for 1st belay and bomber 1st gear placement just round the corner.
Show beta
βeta: Good piece of tat to the left of the gulley for 1st belay and bomber 1st gear placement just round the corner.
pingora 5 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A lot of digging on crux pitch. Probably IV, 4 today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lot of digging on crux pitch. Probably IV, 4 today.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda

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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 32
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flake Buttress (Winter)

Grade: III ***
(Ben Macdui - Stob Coire Sputan Dearg)

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