14m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Land Ho! but at the top of the crack step onto the face on the right. Cross to the base of the slab and balance up this to a delicate final move which is tricky for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Frank Elliott 1927.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si dH 23 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not really much of a thrutch. Absolutely brilliant route, best route Ive done at Birchen. Not too bold really but sustained difficulties - unlike most things at Birchen this is no one-move-wonder. I found th ecrux to be the first move on the slab, not the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not really much of a thrutch. Absolutely brilliant route, best route Ive done at Birchen. Not too bold really but sustained difficulties - unlike most things at Birchen this is no one-move-wonder. I found th ecrux to be the first move on the slab, not the top.
Nutkey 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I faced right and thrutched massively, my second bridged out and made it look easy... The slab was fun, and not as bold as I expected - was pleasantly surprised to get any gear in after the first break.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I faced right and thrutched massively, my second bridged out and made it look easy... The slab was fun, and not as bold as I expected - was pleasantly surprised to get any gear in after the first break.
LakesWinter 11 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nah, just face right and thrutch away, nice and easy and very secure!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nah, just face right and thrutch away, nice and easy and very secure!
Alex Mason 11 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: when climbing the first crack use the dimples in the left face this makes it more do able
Show beta
βeta: when climbing the first crack use the dimples in the left face this makes it more do able
Alex Mason 11 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: if you stick to the left hand side of the higher slab this makes it a good hvs 5a because the crack narrows and slopes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: if you stick to the left hand side of the higher slab this makes it a good hvs 5a because the crack narrows and slopes
leon 5 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i found the start pretty tricky. the whole thing feels bold but no more than you'd expect for a VS slab route. a good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i found the start pretty tricky. the whole thing feels bold but no more than you'd expect for a VS slab route. a good route.
Skyfall 31 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I have to admi I found this quite hard at the grade. The initial crack is strenuous but the real crux of the matter is a series of steps up the front face, from break to break, which are adequately protected but feel bold. A class but bold route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have to admi I found this quite hard at the grade. The initial crack is strenuous but the real crux of the matter is a series of steps up the front face, from break to break, which are adequately protected but feel bold. A class but bold route.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 157
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 145
Votes cast 149
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inaccessible Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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