Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2023 26th February update: The Ravens do not appear to be using the existing nest in Gardoms Unconquerable - however one more check will be made in case they are late starting, so please be observant and report any sightings if you are in the area.

In recent years a Tawny Owl has nested in the Layback Crack/Flake Crack.area - it is not known if they are present in 2023 but please keep your eyes and ears out if climbing in this area.

 

15m.

Rockfax Description
The continuous crack just left of the arete is tricky to enter (jig to the left) and is good above. Large gear helps but isn't essential. © Rockfax

FA. Clifford Moyer 1931.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Seven Crags, Seven Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
KylieC 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Hated every second of this impossible route. ABSOLUTE mother fcker of a VS. Didnt think i would make it out alive, even the ravens started gathering. Luckily i was only seconding, my boyfriend sauntered up like no thang :-I
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hated every second of this impossible route. ABSOLUTE mother fcker of a VS. Didnt think i would make it out alive, even the ravens started gathering. Luckily i was only seconding, my boyfriend sauntered up like no thang :-I
Duz Walker 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of decent moves, then settles into a Diff finish. Hard Severe, just.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couple of decent moves, then settles into a Diff finish. Hard Severe, just.
mark75 11 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A Friend 4 high in the offwidth makes the crux extremely safe - not really comitting enough for VS. I had trouble extracting my left knee from the crack - the jam is that good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A Friend 4 high in the offwidth makes the crux extremely safe - not really comitting enough for VS. I had trouble extracting my left knee from the crack - the jam is that good.
howlingbaboon 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very green when I climbed it, and stank of 2 rotten birds nests, found this a real awkward struggle, pulled my way up the middle bit with one finger. The top bit was easier but was virtually moss.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very green when I climbed it, and stank of 2 rotten birds nests, found this a real awkward struggle, pulled my way up the middle bit with one finger. The top bit was easier but was virtually moss.
Si dH 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Surprised all the votes are for VS, ok one hard move going up the offwisth but the gear is bomber by your waste and once you commit its easy (perhaps unless youre particularly weak or cant step high at all). Should note there is currently a birds next (avec several baby birds) in the back of the top crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surprised all the votes are for VS, ok one hard move going up the offwisth but the gear is bomber by your waste and once you commit its easy (perhaps unless youre particularly weak or cant step high at all). Should note there is currently a birds next (avec several baby birds) in the back of the top crack.

Logged Ascents

445 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gardom's Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 26 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 59
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Titanic

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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