Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

27m.

Rockfax Description
A steep start gains the hanging arete. Start below the roofs. Climb up through the stack of overhangs and then follow the arete all the way to a difficult finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Beefy Bert 4 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Load of choss should have never been bolted.
Show beta
βeta: Load of choss should have never been bolted.
salix 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are 2 rusted maillons on the final bolt. Still space to clip, but FFS, don\'t leave junk on a sea cliff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are 2 rusted maillons on the final bolt. Still space to clip, but FFS, don't leave junk on a sea cliff.

Logged Ascents

50 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 11 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
China White

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Coastguard North)

Loading Notifications...