Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A big pitch that crosses the wide chimney. Start left of the wide crack that becomes a chimney higher up. Climb the wall via cracks to a ledge. The upper wall on the opposite side of the chimney is technical and provides the meat of the pitch. The final roof is tough. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 04/May/2006.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Portland , Portland 7a/+
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Sang Chaud
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Wallsend South)