10m.

Rockfax Description
A mini Three Pebble which is harder but is less satisfying. Climb the slab just to the right of the tiny groove which has the runner. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Jaimey's tricky slab list

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User Date Notes
leathers 25 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Given E1 in the 1980s guidebook
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βeta: Given E1 in the 1980s guidebook
Christheclimber 19 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Gave it a bit of a clean but didn’t have a big brush. At least the crucial holds are now clean.
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βeta: Gave it a bit of a clean but didn’t have a big brush. At least the crucial holds are now clean.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Only one move, so not a starred route, technically I found it harder than 3PS, felt E1 to me.
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βeta: Only one move, so not a starred route, technically I found it harder than 3PS, felt E1 to me.
Jon Stewart 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The route as it appears in the old guidbook at E1 5b must be a solo avoiding the little corner crack. It's a silly eliminate and a one-move wonder and therefore not worth including in a selective guidbook (but it's a cool move and you'd hurt yourself if you fell off, so it's a bit of a buzz if you like that sort of thing). The little corner crack is about Severe, so to grade this HVS 5b means you're using the crack for runners but not holds, which is even more silly than doing the original eliminate. Why not just remove it from the book, cause it's not meant to include silly little routes with no line or purpose.
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βeta: The route as it appears in the old guidbook at E1 5b must be a solo avoiding the little corner crack. It's a silly eliminate and a one-move wonder and therefore not worth including in a selective guidbook (but it's a cool move and you'd hurt yourself if you fell off, so it's a bit of a buzz if you like that sort of thing). The little corner crack is about Severe, so to grade this HVS 5b means you're using the crack for runners but not holds, which is even more silly than doing the original eliminate. Why not just remove it from the book, cause it's not meant to include silly little routes with no line or purpose.
nathanmanc 23 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice route, not really worth putting a rope on for tho. Wouldnt placing side runners be harder than just climbing it without, or do you use the giant flake to place the runners & therefore gain a S grade? Found it easier than 3pebble. Nice tho.
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βeta: A nice route, not really worth putting a rope on for tho. Wouldnt placing side runners be harder than just climbing it without, or do you use the giant flake to place the runners & therefore gain a S grade? Found it easier than 3pebble. Nice tho.
Andrew Barker 6 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easier and far less worrying than three pebble. I'd say around HVS 5a, especially if you use the 'side' runner.
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βeta: Easier and far less worrying than three pebble. I'd say around HVS 5a, especially if you use the 'side' runner.
Robo 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Another crap, dirty eliminate route like Four Pebble. Don't bother.
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βeta: Another crap, dirty eliminate route like Four Pebble. Don't bother.
mwh 1 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think it's a bit silly to say this has a harder move than 3PS, the crux moves are quite different. I found this route very much easier than its brother, but can see others might not. First E1, and a good choice for *mine*.
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βeta: I think it's a bit silly to say this has a harder move than 3PS, the crux moves are quite different. I found this route very much easier than its brother, but can see others might not. First E1, and a good choice for *mine*.
leon 8 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: this was my first e1. the crux is low but interesting. agree that it feels more like vs or hvs.
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βeta: this was my first e1. the crux is low but interesting. agree that it feels more like vs or hvs.
Skyfall 24 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The starting slab is the hardest bit technically. I agree, the runners around the corner are so close that it is very artificial to ignore them. Something should be mentioned in the guidebook. With the runners, agree it felt like HVS 5b.
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βeta: The starting slab is the hardest bit technically. I agree, the runners around the corner are so close that it is very artificial to ignore them. Something should be mentioned in the guidebook. With the runners, agree it felt like HVS 5b.
Paul Boardman 25 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was much easier than 3PS. The route description doesn't mention the fact that the side runners are out & it seems daft to leave them out if they're there! Make it a nice HVS.
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βeta: I thought this was much easier than 3PS. The route description doesn't mention the fact that the side runners are out & it seems daft to leave them out if they're there! Make it a nice HVS.

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Guidebooks for Froggatt Edge

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 143
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 137
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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