Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
The technical wall on small edges and chert nodules. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Portland Bouldering Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland - The Boulders

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Voting
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cunning Lingo

Grade: f6B+ ***
(Coastguard Beach)

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