Rockfax Description
An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack - fortunately it is easier than it looks, though the right wall is often a bit green and slippery. Threaded chockstones or large cams protect. Those heading Stateside might want to 'off-width' it just for the practice - a whole different ball-game at 5.9! © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke 1963.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Wide Cracks , Millstone HVS's , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , WideBoyz Crack School , UK road to wide crack mastery , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| samt | 25 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Large cams not necessarily needed (chockstones lower down and small wire in Dr's Orders higher up. ) | ||
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βeta: Large cams not necessarily needed (chockstones lower down and small wire in Dr's Orders higher up. ) |
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| paulinepavlova | 1 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Can use Black Diamond C4 size 5 in the crack, size 4 would have been handy too at some narrow points. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Can use Black Diamond C4 size 5 in the crack, size 4 would have been handy too at some narrow points. |
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| JHiley | 3 May, 2021 |
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βeta: No chock-stones in the main crack/ after the initial steps. | βeta? | |
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βeta: No chock-stones in the main crack/ after the initial steps. |
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| althesin | 21 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Chockstone fell out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Chockstone fell out. |
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| Chris Craggs | 27 Sep, 2009 |
Show βeta
βeta: HVS 4c without a monster cam - the middle layback goes on a bit! | βeta? | |
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βeta: HVS 4c without a monster cam - the middle layback goes on a bit! |
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| Graham Withers | 8 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Maybe four feet below the top there is a short section where the laybacking is less positive. I fell from here so am biased, but other climbers helping me after were either being very nice or agreed with me that it is HVS and committing. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Maybe four feet below the top there is a short section where the laybacking is less positive. I fell from here so am biased, but other climbers helping me after were either being very nice or agreed with me that it is HVS and committing. |
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| Offwidth | 31 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Committing as a layback but perfectly secure and fine at the grade when dry. Offwidthing the bottom section is also OK if you have the skills. The top section just demands a layback. Probably HVS now without a Friend 5 as the bottom chockstone moves but should be graded VS 4c with a gear warning. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Committing as a layback but perfectly secure and fine at the grade when dry. Offwidthing the bottom section is also OK if you have the skills. The top section just demands a layback. Probably HVS now without a Friend 5 as the bottom chockstone moves but should be graded VS 4c with a gear warning. |
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| mat_galvin | 12 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very committing layback with feet on slippy green stuff. Only for a very positive day out!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very committing layback with feet on slippy green stuff. Only for a very positive day out!! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Altar Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Rivelin Edge)