Rockfax Description
A popular expedition that scales the large pinnacle situated up and to the right of the approach path. Start about 10m up and right of the base of the pinnacle.
1) 4a, 18m. Head up the gully briefly to where a traverse line leads back leftwards towards a wide crack. Balance left to the crack, then make some delicate moves up the narrowing crack to gain a belay at a ledge and boulder.
2) 4a, 25m. Stand on the boulder and make worrying moves right to gain the chimney-crack. Head up this to a sorry excuse for a tree. Using the stump for hand and footholds, make your way up to a bay just below the top. From here climb the left wall to the top of the left tower and belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

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User Date Notes
funtime 25 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Description is wrong belay on ledge on the arête then up to dead tree and to top on right then stride across
βeta?
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βeta: Description is wrong belay on ledge on the arête then up to dead tree and to top on right then stride across
GrahamUney 6 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This description isn't right. From the small bay above the dead tree you climb the Pinnacle on the right, then stride across the gap to the top of the Buttress on the left. Also, the better belay ledges are on the flat block on the Arête at the end of the traverse on pitch one, with the second belay stance in the small bay below the Pinnacle.
βeta?
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βeta: This description isn't right. From the small bay above the dead tree you climb the Pinnacle on the right, then stride across the gap to the top of the Buttress on the left. Also, the better belay ledges are on the flat block on the Arête at the end of the traverse on pitch one, with the second belay stance in the small bay below the Pinnacle.
surferdude7 8 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky decent off the back of the pinnacle but found a large tree to absail off.
βeta?
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βeta: A tricky decent off the back of the pinnacle but found a large tree to absail off.
gcombe 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress
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βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress

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Guidebooks for Bowderstone Crags

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Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Followed
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Route of Interest
Woodhead's Climb

Grade: S 4a ***
(Scafell Crag)

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